Lanzar 1 Channel Car Audio Amplifier, 3000 Watt, Monoblock, 2 Ohm, MOSFET, Nickel Plated RCA Input, Bass Boost Circuit, Electronic Crossover Network, Power Protection LEDs - HTG157

Bought it at a sale price, around 80$ on amazon... put it on a RE MT 15" 10,000 watt burp sub.. didn't even move...thought it was some crap.. had a legacy 5,000 watt at 2ohms that burnt, so this was just as cheap as a replacement or so i thought... i put an ssl 2400 watt 15 in the same box at 2 ohm on this lanzar. it ran 20 mins at 3/4 gain on a crossover and smoked that sub... the RE MT at 2ohms would send it into protect in 2 mins max... i zip-tied two 12 volt fans on the amp-never again turned off. it's been great ever since.. the insides look good as well, similar to mtx, and fosgate insides.... not a beast by any means but has great rms once cooled properly at 2 ohms.

DO NOT USE THIS SELLERI got a brand new amp out of the box that was completely junk now I can't even get a hold of them to make a return I repeat again DO NOT USE THIS SELLERI!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! BTW this was not an installation error!! I took the amp to have it installed professionally in the box they tested it before they went to install it and said the amp was dead!

I'm sold on the lanzer amp, they are powerful and reliable. I have the Vector 2 channel bridge system one speaker, so I purchased two 3000w lanzar one channel split for each speaker. This not only produces a better sound, it actually plays continuously at a low heat production.

I returned this order because the amp was overheating and going into protection mode very quickly.However, this is the 2nd of this amp that I have owned, the first one I have had for about 1.75 years.Originally, I installed this setup in a white Mitsubishi Outlander Sport SUV with 2 Lanzar MAXP124D 12" subwoofers in an Audio Enhancers KO212C ported box. This setup hit very hard, even to the point people thought I had 15" subwoofers instead. The speakers themselves only lasted about a year (and the ones I bought as replacements have since burned out a single voice coil on each within 6 months).For a month or two I had the setup moved to a white Toyota Corolla and I had no issues at all.A month or so ago I changed vehicles, now driving a black 2013 Toyota Camry. Neither amp is happy with the heat of being inside a black car in the middle of the summer, even the old amp will go into protection mode for a minute or so after 30 or 40 minutes of playing. As you can see in the picture I added, I even have the amp mounted mostly off the edge of the box, to try to allow it to ventilate better from below. It will even go into protection mode during nighttime driving after long periods of playing.This amp really needs ample ventilation (and a light colored vehicle helps as well), as it gets *very* hot. It is excellent for an SUV setup where there's all open space. But for something more confined there are likely better options for amps available out there.

Buenisima

I replaced a 500w kenwood amp with this. I am powering 2 jl subs rated at 600 watts at a 2 ohm load. At 2 ohms this amp claims to put out 1500w rms. Honestly i think that is unrealistic. But it blows the kenwood amp out of the water. Crisp sound very clear and loud. At first it had nothing after i hooked it up. The gain knob if turned all the way down is turned off. So you have to play with the settings. Also you need a very solid ground i am using 4 gauge wire i had to sand down the connectors on the wires to make it fit but if you have a crappy ground you will get alot of heat. I have not torture tested it but so far for the money im really happy. Do not expect this to power something that is rated at 1500w but its a great amp for the money. I think this amp puts out 700-800 watts.

OK.. so I just got it today to replace a 400watt rms/800 peak Audiobahn amp (screw terminals striped out). Hooked it up to the same 10 inch 4ohm sub and... disappointment set in. It just wasn't. NEAR as loud as I thought it should be. Gains and bass boost all on highest settings.Bought a tap and new screws and fixed the Audiobahn. Then I tested both amps at 40hz, same volume settings and got 109 decibels from the Lanzar and 121db's from my old one. Bummer!I ordered a 2ohm sub and will update after the install, but on 4ohm... not so good...{EDIT} Okay, so with a $30 Pyle PL1090BL 10-Inch 1000 Watt DVC Subwoofer, it IS better. It IS a moderate bump up from what I had before, but NOT NEAR what I was looking for. It was supposed to be 1500 watts/rms, and I know the "off" brands WAY over rate there stuff, but come on! If it was half the "stated" rms at 750watts rms I would have been a happy thumper. For me personally, I'll probably sell this amp and try to find an 800 watt Audiobahn, at least I'll know what I bought then.TO BE FAIR... This amp and the Pyle speaker above DO put out a decent amount of bass! For around $110 bucks, are probably well worth it. They would be a WELCOME upgrade to about ANY stock system.... it's just... mine isn't stock....

So I just hooked up this amp to 2 kicker cvr 12's and I can only turn the gain on half way. Any more than that and it cuts off. I have the bass boost on 6 because 12 is to much. I tuned it in as best as I could so it would not hit protect mood. Subs hit pretty good but don't even come close to pushing them to there max. I had a 4000 watt planet audio that was stolen that worked perfect. It would make them hit hard enough to tickle your throat and rattle your ears. It would shake my rear view mirror so hard you couldn't use it. They broke the metal holder for my radar scanner. Son know what my speakers can do. And I'm on a scale of one to ten. Ten being pleased and 1 horrible displeased. I'm a 1. A true 3000 watt amp which should be around 1500 rms, should easily push my 800 to 850 rms speakers. Not to mention I listened to 3 songs and the amp was to hot to even touch. I'm talking stupid hot. So if your trying to push 800 or more rms don't waste your time with this amp.