OBD2 Scanner & WiFi Car Code Reader – Clears Check Engine Light – Diagnose 3000 Car Codes - Wireless Car Diagnostic Scanner – Auto Scanner for 1996 to 2016 Vehicles (iOS & Android Devices Only)

Got this little device when the "Check Engine Soon" light came on in our 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer ES. I knew I had to replace the upstream O2 sensor, but I had read that an OBD2 scanner was needed to clear the codes because disconnecting the battery wouldn't work.The scanner came with a paper pamphlet with minimal directions (mostly pictures), along with a mini CD that had scanning software that seemed to be bootlegged. It didn't matter to me, though, because I ended up using a paid smartphone app, DashCommand. I recommend this paid app over Goliath Industry's suggestion (Torque) because the interface is cleaner. Torque provides you with empty pages on which you can add widgets, but the widgets appear to be free-floating and I couldn't figure out how to delete empty pages. On the other hand, DashCommand's user interface is neatly organized and well-designed, and the paid version was only about $5 more than Torque's paid version. I figure I will be using this app in the future, and it's already paid for itself.Once the reader is plugged in, you'll see an unrestricted WiFi network called OBDIIWIFI or something similar. Once you connect, DashCommand will automatically attempt to establish a connection, after which you can read/clear codes. So simple! Keep in mind, though, because the WiFi is unrestricted, anyone around you with an OBD2 app will be able to connect if they happen to see the network.All in all, an awesome device that saved me a few hundred bucks! I will recommend it to my friends and family, since the beauty of a WiFi reader is that all smartphones (iOS, Android, Windows) can easily access the scanner, so long as applicable apps are available in their respective stores!

This is a very handy tool to have if you're a DIY kind of person. Just plug it in, connect with an app, and you have access to several dynamic parameters and can view/clear DTCs. I have used this on a 2006 Toyota Tacoma, 2005 Toyota Highlander, 2012 Toyota Corolla, and a 2006 VW Jetta. It worked perfectly on all 4 cars. I even used it to read a DTC that was causing the CEL to illuminate and was able to promptly fix the problem and the code cleared on its own. The free app that is designed to be used with this tool will get the job done. It has a premium feature for 4 bucks that allows you to save and record data and what not. In the future I may purchase a different app that is a little more intuitive and nice looking. The tool itself can be used on a car that isn't running, however I don't recommend it as it seems to use a lot of power and may drain your battery. Also, don't leave it in when you are not using the car as it has a constant red LED and WIFI signal that will surely drain your battery! It's not a set and forget kind of thing. It is worth noting that this is in fact a WIFI device and not Bluetooth. After looking at many other Scanners, many of them were bluetooth and when I bought this one I thought it was bluetooth too because I wasn't paying attention. Not that big a deal, but I would've preferred a bluetooth version because the WIFI signal interrupts other WIFI and cellular connections so you can't use the internet at the same time. Bluetooth would allow this. Just a thought in case you also didn't notice that this was a WIFI device. BTW I use an iPhone 6 in case you were wondering about compatibility.

First of all, in whatever of my 3 cars I use this in, it mounts backwards - so the lights are facing away from me. That means I can't see when it's connected unless I use a mirror.Second, you usually need to buy add ons for the app to really use it successfully with your particular vehicle. Third, it often disconnects itself. All that being said, it did what I needed it to do.I was using it to clear the MIL (check engine light) and then monitor the results of the computer tests as you drive a specific # of miles. Then you know when you can drive it in for a sticker, before the light comes on again. First of all, I would never do this if the code was somethiing that really needed to be fixed. But in my case it's a code that doesn't really mean much and would require dropping the fuel tank and removing / replacing the fuel pump or fuel pump sensors to fix. That's probably a $1,200 repair.Result, my gas gauge doesn't always work and I use the odometer to know when I need gas. I can live with that.Anyway, I've used this two years in a row to get a sticker. Sometimes it takes driving the car on a few occaisions for 50 or 60 miles. So it eats time, as it is not always successful on your first attempt. This is not a function of the tool, but more of a function of your car's computer.As you're driving you can see the tests happening and you get a green check mark in the app when each one is completed. Please note that in certain states you can have 1 failed emission code and still get your sticker. It's usually the catalyst that takes the longest to turn green. Once it does the app shows that the vehicle is ready for emissions testing. This usually takes 50 or 60 miles, at least.There are many forums that tell you how to specifically drive your vehicle for the quickest and best results. So I won't cover that here.The kicker is to get it to the station after all the codes clear, but before the computer finds the fault again. In my case this means NOT shutting the car off. If I do, and then restart it again, the light usually returns and I've wasted a couple hours of my time.So if you are going to use it for this task, just know that it isn't necessarily quick and easy. It takes time and you need to tell your mechanic not to shut the car off before testing.As I mentioned, all this being said, it has worked for me two years in a row and saved me from an unneccessary $1,200 repair bill.Hope this helps someone.