Design Engineering050501 Floor & Tunnel Shield II - Adhesive Heat and Sound Insulation, 21" x 24" (3.5 sq. ft.)

Proper aluminum hear wrapping with asbestos lining and glue surface. Highly recommend it.

Received it on time through the international prime free delivery thanks for the great service, still need to install it on the car but I know from different channels that is the best cure for the gear box heat insulation, should work well

Very good quality good stuff

Good quality. Easy to use. Can mold into intricate shapes to heat shield my ecu and battery.

Great product. Will definitely Buy again.

This is a very high quality product but there are things you need to know. First, it is not like working with that rubberized sound deadening material that goes under your carpet. This uses a much thicker aluminum foil over a fiberglass material with a very aggressive adhesive. To give the adhesive its best chance, I started by cleaning my 140k mile floor pan multiple times with mineral spirits, prepped it with scotch bright pads and sand paper, then and gave it a fresh rattle can paint job. I let the paint cure for a week before installing the tunnel shield. It took a 42x48 and 21x48 sheet to do the entire tunnel area from frame rail to frame rail of my '04 Miata. Once the adhesive makes anything more than the lightest contact, its difficult to remove without separating the fiberglass layer so get it right the first time. I created a template with paper bags and masking tape. then cut the template in such a way that it would lay flat. I then layed out the template pieces on the tunnel shield material to plan my cuts. I bought an inexpensive pair of scissors (ASIN B00LSWLAA8) and they made it through the job... I needed to stop periodically to clean the adhesive and fiberglass off them. The cut edges are sharp so wear some gloves! I roughly contoured the tunnel shield to my project BEFORE removing the paper backing. I then carefully positioned my work and gradually removed the paper backing while rolling it in. Work slowly and deliberately. The foil is flexible enough to roll into and around contours but it does have its limits. The roller I used: (ASIN B07X5SV5FD), its a good quality product that should last through many projects. You'll need to seal the edges since water could get into the fiberglass layer. DEI recommends their tape for this purpose but several people had negative things to say about the tape. On the recommendation of another enthusiast, I sealed the edges with RTV. I used loctite grey #5699 ASIN B0794BYCZ2. The pressurized container works in any orientation and made it easy to apply a consistent bead. Mask along your seams so you get straight, tidy edges. Again if you work slowly and deliberately, you can get good results. I worked in the silicone with a finger and wore heavy Venom Steel nitrile gloves to keep the chemicals off/out of my body (ASIN B00Y2OFGMW). Good Luck!

Easy to form into shape. Used to reduce heat transfer between exhaust system and transfer case.